When I visited, that philosophy was visible in the simplest way: a mountain of ground mushroom compost alive with worms, insects, and pollinators, a living ecosystem with nothing artificial pushing it along. Sixteen acres stretch from the farmhouse down to the river. A geodesic dome keeps beets, kale, Swiss chard, and herbs growing year-round. Lemon trees thrive there too, over a hundred lemons last year, along with figs and even bananas.

Photo: Bill Winters Amy Wu is an award-winning writer for the women’s ag and agtech movement based in the Hudson Valley. She is an...